Coil Pot Construction

Use a low fire white clay (grey before firing) or terra cotta (red) clay. Both available on our web site.

Coil pottery is a simple technique that can have great results.
 
 (Roll out coil)
 

Squeezing the clay into a coil or rolling between your hands are two ways to make coils.  This technique can be difficult to make a smooth round coil because of the uneven pressure from your hands and fingers.

(Roll out coil)

When hand rolling coils,use a smooth surface and spreading your hands to apply even pressure.Gently roll the clay back and forth.

(A good thickness)

 Roll the coils so that they are a little thicker than a pencil.  Then stack the coils one on top of another.

(Scrape inside)

For strength, force the clay together on the inside of the piece.  Use you finger and scrape the top coil onto the coil under it.

(Smooth inside)

When smoothing the inside of the piece hold you other hand on the outside so you do not damage what you have completed already.

(Leveling the top)

If you want the top level, gently turn your piece over and lightly tap it on a smooth surface.

(Dry slowly)
 

When you are finished with your piece let it dry slowly.The grooves in the piece are weak spots and if this dries too quick it will crack. Fire at cone 06 to bisque coil pot.

(Spreading the clay)

  Begin with a smooth flat surface.  Place newspaper or cloth over the surface to prevent the clay from sticking to your work surface. Spread clay out by patting it with your whole hand.

(Flipping the clay)
  To flip the clay over - carefully hold top and bottom of the clay with the palms of your hands.  This will prevent the clay from tearing while you are flipping it.
 
(Rolling out the clay)
  To help you roll your clay to an even thickness, place a yard stick on each side and roll out until the clay is the same thickness as your yard stick.
 
(Cutting your slabs)
  Use a ruler to help you cut a straight line. (Tip: If  you want a 90` corner - lay a piece of paper over the clay to show the 90' corner.)
 
(Let clay firm-up)
  After you cut out your bottom and sides, let them sit until the clay is leather hard.  For most clay's this will take about an hour.
 
(Score or Scratch the edges)
  When your clay is leather hard use a needle or sharp pencil to scratch the edges of the clay where the clay will be joined together.  A criss-cross pattern works well for this.
 
(Apply slip to edges)
  Make some slip by watering down a small amount of clay until it is the consistency of yogurt. Magic mender is also great for connecting items. Apply the slip or magic mender to the areas you just scratched.

(Applying the slip or mender)
    Apply Slip or mender with a brush or fingers.                                              

(Joining the pottery)
  When placing the edges together slide the two surfaces together in a slight back and forth motion to strengthen the bond between the surfaces.
 
(When you have a good bond)
  With experience you will get the feel of a good bond.  You will know you have a good bond when most of the slip has squeezed out between the two surfaces being joined together.  Also, the clay will not want to slide back and forth easily.
 
(Add a coil to the inside seam)
To make the seem stronger place a coil in the corners of the piece.  Gently press the coil into the corner.  Be careful not to break your corner away.
 
(Smoothing out the coil)
  I like to use the top end of a brush to smooth out the corners.  Notice my other hand holding the corner so I don't break it away.
 
(The final touches - Corners)
  I use a damp brush to smooth out all the corners so the seams are no longer visible.
 
The final touches - Top edge)
  To smooth out the top edge use a wet paper towel and carefully slid the towel up and down the length of each edge.  This will round the edges so they will not be sharp.
 
(Measuring for a top)
  If you plan to make a lid measure the length and width of the piece and write down the measurements.  The piece will shrink as it dries and you will need these measurements to make the lid.
 
(Finishing touch - Handles)
  Rather than a lid I decided to place handles on each side.  The handles give the piece a focal point and makes it more interesting to look at. Handles can be made in coil manner and attached with slip or mender. See Making and Attaching handles below.
 
Once you have completed your hand built slab piece, you will need to dry it thoroughly before firing it.  It is important to dry the piece slowly and evenly.  Handles tend to dry faster than the rest of the piece and that will lead to cracking.  If the piece dries too quickly it may crack or warp.  A good way to dry your piece is to cover it evenly with a newspaper tent this will allow the moisture to escape slowly.  The slower the piece dries the better.
 

Handles are not only functional for lifting pieces but they are also pleasing to look at.  Pulling the handle and attaching it involves making some decisions about size and shape.  A handle should always be strong enough to support the weight of the piece.  Also, if the piece might be used to lift something, like a pitcher with water, the handle should be strong enough to lift the piece plus its contents.

(Begin with a ball of clay)

 Take the clay and pat it into the shape of a carrot.

(Pulling the length of the clay)
  Wet the clay and your hand and begin pulling the clay into a long handle in a stroking fashion.  You can not do this in one pull.  Pulling a handle may take 50 pulls or more.  Each pull will make the handle just a little longer.

(Let the handle sit to firm up)
  After the handle is the correct size, let the handle firm up, by placing it off the edge of a table.  This handle has been lifted back to the top so that the curve of the handle will already be made when the handle firms up.

(Both pieces are ready)
   When the piece you are attaching the handle to is leather hard and when the handle is firm you can attach the handle.
 
(Scratch the cup where the handle will be attached)
  Using a sharp pencil or a needle tool - scratch the piece where the handle will be attached.

(Press the top of the handle into place)
  Scratch the handle where it will attach to the piece and press the handle in place.  It is a good idea to put slip on both pieces before pressing it on.  

(Do the same for the bottom)
     Attach the bottom the same way you attached the top of the handle. Dry as described above and fire.

With pinching gestures, you can mold clay into objects such as animals or even make a bowl.  While this form of pottery seems really basic, you can get a feel for the clay you are working with and you will get to know the limits of your clay. (Does it bend easily?  Does it dry fast?  Etc.)

To make a bowl...
(Begin with a ball of clay)
   Begin with a ball of clay.  Push your thumb into the center.  Then pinch up the walls.

(Turn the piece as you pinch)
  Turn the piece as you pinch.  This will help you to keep an even thickness in the walls of the piece.

(Flatten the bottom)
   Gently pat the bottom on a flat surface to create a flat spot on the bottom of the piece. Let dry slowly and fire.

This is another technique using coils to construct a piece of pottery.  This technique involve both making coils and pressing them into a pattern.
 
(Roll coils)
  Roll coils in a circular fashion.
 
(Make a pattern)
  Line up coils rolls as seen here.  Then place a couple coils on top above and below the coil rolls.
 
(Fill in gaps)
  Press a ball of clay in each gap that you can see through.
 
(Scrape and Smooth)
  Scrape all the coils together.  Don't worry about the other side, your coil pattern will still be visible.
 
(Straighten edges)
  After the coils have been scraped and smoothed, you might want to straighten the edges by tapping a yard stick against the edge.  Your piece is now like a slab, however, your coil pattern will still be visible on the other side.

(Lift carefully)
  Carefully lift your coil slab.

(Make a bottom)
  Cut out a shape for your bottom.  I used a cup as a guide for my bottom.

(Bend and attach to the bottom)
    Carefully bend the coil slab around the bottom you cut out.

(Smooth the bottom)
  Flip over your piece then scrape and smooth the bottom.  A finger that has been dipped in water works great for smoothing.

(Finishing touches)
   On the area where the coil slab was put together use a pencil and draw the coil pattern back onto the piece.

(Finishing touches - Smooth the top edge)
  Smooth out the top and you piece is ready to dry slowly.  It is important to dry the piece slowly because the grooves from the coils will crack if drying occurs too quickly.

Fire when totally dry!

Pocket Full of Posies - - Ceramic Art Lesson Plan

Teaching Tips:
• Present real flowers to the students for ceramic flower ideas.
• Draw the flowers and their parts.
• Bring in potted plants so students can see plants that hang over a pot edge.
• Use a color chart or wheel to help students with color choices.
• Have students make patterns with objects in clay to practice and select designs.
• Planting real flowers might help some students understand the features and textures of flowers.
• Pre cut a pattern for the back and pocket of the hanging pot.
Miscellaneous Materials:
Concepts™ Underglazes for Bisque:
• 2 oz. Concept™ Underglazes in assorted colors
Envision™ Glazes:
• IN 1001 Clear Glaze
• Rubvber stamps, Tacky Glue
• Floral Glue
• Low fire white clay, Laguna EM210 (approximately 1 lb. for each student)
• Rolling pin(s) for rolling slabs
• Cloth covered board (9 X 11)
• Plastic knives or bamboo stick for cutting the clay
• Bamboo sticks cut at different lengths
• Flower cookie cutters to make flowers
• Bucket of water for washing hands after the project
• Newspaper
 

Step-by-Step:
1. Give each student l lb. of clay.

2. Divide the clay into 2 pieces.1 piece needs to be 2/3 of the clay & the other 1/3 of
the clay.
3. Flatten the larger piece of clay so that the clay can be rolled to a flat ¼” thickness.
4. Use a pattern to cut the back of the plaque with a bamboo stick.
5. Flatten the smaller piece of clay and roll it out to a ¼” thickness for the pocket.
6. Use a pocket pattern to cut out one pocket. This will be a little larger than the back piece because
you want the clay to bend to make room inside the pocket.
7. Refer to pre drawn designs and patterns and talk about design and placement of the stamps.
8. Let the children pick from the assortment of stamps. Let them press in the designs before
assembling the pocket to the back. Be sure they decorate both the back and the pocket.
9. When the back and the pocket are finished, score the edge of the back where the pocket will be
placed. Also, score the back of the pocket on the edge.
10. Place a small-wadded piece of newspaper or paper towel in the center of the area where the
pocket will be placed. This will hold the pocket up away from the back.
11. Place slip (a mixture of clay and water) on the scored areas and put the two pieces together. With
your thumb, press the edge of the pocket together around the bottom of the plaque. You can use
other things to press instead of your thumb, i.e. tongue depressor, paper clip and Popsicle stick,
etc.
12. Place two holes at the top of the plaque for the yarn to go through for hanging.
Flowers and Leaves
1. Using Flower Cheaters, press a small lump of clay onto the form and smooth off the clay on the
edges.
2. With another tiny piece of clay lift the edge of the clay from the Flower Cheater form.
3. Place a hole in the middle of the flower with a bamboo stick.
4. Let dry thoroughly.
Fire, Decorate, Finish
1. Set aside under newspaper to dry, 3 to 7 days.
2. When the piece is completely dry, bisque fire to Cone 04.
3. Decorate with a variety of Duncan Concepts. Use at least two coats of Concepts to make bright
and intense designs. Leave the clay without paint in some areas.
4. Brush on IN 1001 Clear Glaze and Fire to Cone 06.
Assembly Flowers
1. Use different lengths of bamboo sticks and Tacky Glue to assemble.
2. Dip the end of the bamboo stick onto the Tacky Glue and then stick into the
hole of the flower.
3. Using  Floral Glue in the bottom of the pocket, place your flowers in the pocket.
Other Uses For Your Pocket Plaque
1. Add stick candy i.e. candy canes, Tootsie Pops
2. Pencil holder
3. Dried flower arrangements
4. Plant Nasturtiums seeds in dirt
5. Plant succulents
6. Holds your keys

Character Bust - - Ceramic Art Lesson Plan

Grade Level: K-3 & 4-6

Duration: 3-½ hours: 1st day-1 hour, 2nd day-1 hour, 3rd day- 1 hour, and 4th day- ½ hour.

Preparation:

Share historical bust images.

Provide examples of the best available character analysis and read story examples.

Build a bust prior to the lesson as an example.

Pre draw possible ideas, at least three drawings to help start the project.

Discuss the process and present a timeline for the work.

Vocabulary:

Three-dimensional Having height, width, and depth. Also referred to as 3-D.

Subtractive Refers to sculpting method produced by removing or taking away from the

original material (the opposite of additive).

Structure The way in which parts are arranged or put together to form a whole.

Sculpture A three-dimensional work of art either in the round (to be viewed from all sides) or

in base relief (low relief in which figures protrude slightly from the background).

Duncan Materials:

Cover-Coat™ Glazes:

Varity of Cover-Coat™ Glazes

For 25 students, this project would require:

 CC101 Artic White, 3, 2 oz. bottles

 CC190 Baby Blue, 3, 2 oz. bottles

 CC117 Walnut Brown, 5, 2 oz. bottles

 CC165 Black Brown, 5, 2 oz. bottles

Character Bust - - Ceramic Art Lesson Plan

Envision™ Glazes:

IN 1001 Clear Glaze, 1 pt.

IN 1074 Cranberry (first skin color) 10, 2 oz. bottles

IN 1054 Cantaloupe (second coat skin color) 10, 2 oz. bottles

Brushes/Tools:

BR 582 No. 5/0 Detail

BR 529 No. 4 Sabeline Round

TL 415 Sponge

Miscellaneous Materials:

60 pounds of White bodied clay (approximately 2 lbs. for each student)

Newspaper

Drawing paper

Sturdy paper plates or pieces of wood for student busts

Step-by-Step Instructions:

1. After pre drawing some of your ideas, start building scaffolding out of clay slab, this will

support your bust. Your bust must be hollow because solid forms will explode due to air

pockets.

2. Once the scaffolding is built start molding your clay slab into a head shape around the

scaffold. Don’t forget the shoulders, they will help stabilize your bust so it will not fall over.

3. Once the basic shape is in place you can start adding and removing for specific features.

4. Once your head is complete set it aside.

5. Set aside the piece under newspaper to dry for two to three days.

6. When the piece is completely dry, paint your design with Cover-Coat™ and Envision™ Glazes

underglazes, stilt and carefully bisque fire to Cone 04.

7. Paint the eyes and teeth with Envision™ IN 1001 Clear Glaze. Fire to Cone 06.

Assessment:

Set high standards for students and discuss how to reach them.

Discuss with students why decisions were made based on insight, rationale and technique.

Have students assess their own work, in addition to their peers, to gain understanding and

appreciation.

Use a variety of specific types of evaluation to determine individual and group performance.

Continue assessment after project completion to help students reflect on projects and enhance

further creations.

 
Clowning Around - - Ceramic Art Lesson Plan
Grade Level: K-8


Educational Objectives:
This lesson provides opportunities for students to:
• Learn how to make different shapes in clay to make facial expressions.
• Learn how to attach fired clay parts to a bisque tile to make a clown face.
• Or learn how to create an original clown from the hand-built face.

Duncan Materials:
For 30 Students
Bisque/Clay:
 30 lbs of white low-fire clay
Concepts Underglaze for Bisque:
• CN 501 Neon Yellow
• CN 502 Neon Blue
• CN 504 Neon Orange
• CN 505 Neon Green
• CN 506 Neon Coral
• CN 221 Light Blush
• CN 253 Black
Envision Clear Brush-On Glaze:
• IN 1001

Clowning Around - - Ceramic Art Lesson Plan
Brushes/Tools:
• SB 806- #6 Round
• SB 807- #6 Fan Glaze
• SB 820- #1 Liner
• TL 401- Cleanup Tool
Miscellaneous Materials:
• Garlic press or clay press
• Board to roll out clay
• Rolling pin
• Short bamboo skewers for cutting clay and detailing
• Water containers
• Disposable plates to use as palettes
Step-by-Step:
1. Flatten the clay so that clay can be rolled flat to 1/8th” thickness.
Use a garlic press or clay pres to push clay through for hair.
2. Make round balls for the eyes and nose. Indent your thumb in the back of the ball. This will be the
side that will be placed on the tile.
3. Lips can be made by rolling clay into a coil and shaping it for the mouth, or roll out a piece of clay
and cut out a shape.
4. Once these shapes are completed and smoothed with a tiny bit of water and your finger, attach
them by scoring the piece and use a little clay slip. The eyes and nose must have an air vent (a
hole) under the pieces through the back of the face.
5. Now you can dress your clown with a hat, ribbon, ears, a collar or ruffle. Be creative!!
6. The clay face will have to dry flat until the clay is completely dry. You can test the dryness of the
clay by touching the clay to your face. If it is cold and not light in color it is still wet and will
explode in the kiln when fired.
7. Fire to cone 04, firing them flat on the shelf.
8. Decorate with Concepts. Use at least two coats of the colors to give bright and intense colors.
9. Brush on IN 1001 Clear glaze. Fire to cone 06.
 

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